Scanning Sprocket Holes using Epson Scanners

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For anyone who’s bought a Spinner 360 or a Sprocket Rocket, figuring out how to scan sprockets can take a lot of trial and error… which is why I wrote this guide.

As most Epson scanners are bundled with EpsonScan and Silverfast SE software, two things that misbehave identically, I created this guide for both so that no one else has to go through the same pain that I did. However, this guide does assume you know how to use the basic functions of the scanner.

Also needed in the process is a scanning mask, which Lomography luckily has. If you weren’t aware, there are Lomography DigitaLIZA Scanning Masks for your 35 mm, 110, and 120 negatives. They were designed to help with scanning even your most experimental photos with overlapping exposures, extra long panoramas and exposed sprocket holes, so there won’t be any problems about that!

Using Silverfast SE

Assuming your scanner can find your filmstrip placed in your Lomography DigitaLIZA Scanning Mask (and if it can’t, place it in the middle of the scanning area and not against the sides), the first time you do a preview will probably result in an image that is washed out.

The problem here is that the “Auto Exposure” button in the Negafix window combined with the exposed sprockets causes the scanning software to get confused, resulting in the washed out image.

For now, leave the “Auto” button checked and drag the frame area box in, so that it only covers the middle area of the film. Doing this will instantly correct the colors of the film, so you will suddenly have a nicely balanced image. If you want to make any changes to saturation, contrast and midtones, now is the time to do it.

Next, un-tick the “Auto” button in the Negafix window.

Drag the frame area box to the edge of the film strip. You will find that your adjustments to the middle of the frame now cover the whole film area. Finally, you are ready to scan!

Using EpsonScan

Scanning sprockets with Epson’s bundled scanning software uses an almost identical technique. When you first preview the filmstrip, it does a better job than Silverfast, but this can still be improved.

As before, drag the frame area in so that it only covers the middle of the filmstrip. This will instantly balance the lighting in the frame.

Now we need to turn off “Continuous Auto Exposure” which can be found by pressing the “Configuration” button in the main window.

After turning it off, return to the preview and drag the frame area so it covers the whole filmstrip. As with Silverfast, you will have a nicely balanced image that’s ready for scanning.

written by disasterarea on 2011-05-28 #gear #tutorials #tutorial #scanning #tipster #epson-scanner-silverfast-epson-scan-sprockets-spinner-360-rocket

24 Comments

  1. stouf
    stouf ·

    Ho ! Fantastic !

  2. vicuna
    vicuna ·

    It's a bit the same principle with canoscan software, by selecting first the area without sprockets, and then check the button "apply the settings to the whole area" (or something like that, don't know it in english as I use the french version) and then you can select the picture with the sprockets :)

  3. disasterarea
    disasterarea ·

    I forgot the mention that when using Silverfast, the Negafix window only appears if you are using it in "Professional Mode"...which isn't really much harder to understand than basic mode.

    Sorry 'bout that

  4. jennson
    jennson ·

    Oh yeeeaahh!! thats what i ve been waiting for ..well done!!!

  5. awesomesther
    awesomesther ·

    Great tipster :) Simple, easy to understand :D
    Now, I just need some $$$ to buy that damn scanner I've been dreaming about :p

  6. kvboyle
    kvboyle ·

    Thanks!!!! I was struggling with this just today!

  7. szzs
    szzs ·

    Hi! Helpful tipster! I have some films with sprockets waiting for scanning, I will try this, but my pictures are not Spinner strips, probably I have to play more with selections.

  8. disasterarea
    disasterarea ·

    @szzs yes you just have to do it individually for each frame on the strip.
    Although I havent tried it, it would be probably best to get exposure correct for each frame as you would for a non-sprocket film strip, then when you're done, turn off "continuous auto exposure" and move the rectangle to the cover the sprockets as the last thing you do before scanning

  9. davidlee0404
    davidlee0404 ·

    need a scanner for 35mm/120mm film scanning. Any recommendation of which scanner model can do the job?

  10. disasterarea
    disasterarea ·

    Depending on your budget an epson v500, v600 or V700 are all great scanners. The cannon 8800f is also a great choice.
    My personal choice is the epson V700, which I used for all my scans on lomography.com

  11. alicemay
    alicemay ·

    It took me soooooo long to figure this out!! i got there eventually!
    too bad you didnt do this tipster about 6 months ago! :D

  12. itsdebraanne
    itsdebraanne ·

    scanning my Sprocket Rocket film from July 4th!! thanks for you help! (:

  13. lighttomysoul
    lighttomysoul ·

    beh my canon 8800f won't work with my digitaliza! and Silverfast is such a pain to me. I don't like it. How do the Epson v500 and digitaliza go together? maybe I'll just buy the V500 and same myself time and trouble

  14. lighttomysoul
    lighttomysoul ·

    lol I don't even have the 8800. I have the 8400F...... think I might upgrade soon. I got this one damn well cheap so it has probably already earned in the price I gave (350SEK)

  15. sparkysteph50
    sparkysteph50 ·

    I have tried following these steps repeatedly with my Epson V600 (and same info from Flickr threads). After I turn off the auto correction and re-draw the frame area to include the sprocket holes, the sprocket holes both top and bottom are "blacked out". When scanned the printing on the edges shows, and there are "shadow" sprocket marks on the image, above the blacked out area. I'm trying to scan with both the digitaliza and just putting the negatives straight on the scanner. Ideas/suggestions?

  16. sparkysteph50
    sparkysteph50 ·

    I have tried following these steps repeatedly with my Epson V600 (and same info from Flickr threads). After I turn off the auto correction and re-draw the frame area to include the sprocket holes, the sprocket holes both top and bottom are "blacked out". When scanned the printing on the edges shows, and there are "shadow" sprocket marks on the image, above the blacked out area. I'm trying to scan with both the digitaliza and just putting the negatives straight on the scanner. Ideas/suggestions?

  17. sparkysteph50
    sparkysteph50 ·

    sorry, hit "submit" twice

  18. disasterarea
    disasterarea ·

    @lightmysoul You'd be best talking to Captain Zoezo...she has an Epson V500 and (from what I've seen) she loves it

  19. metal_guru
    metal_guru ·

    I'm using an Epson V500. I'm unable to select as a document type "Film with film area guide." I have two choices in the professional mode: film and reflective. I can't scan the strip. I'm using the DIGITALIZA and Epsonscan breaks the strip into individual frames so I have to assemble the strip in Photoshop. I'm scanning great sprocket holes but I'd really like to scan the strip as one image. HELP!

  20. skjaeve
    skjaeve ·

    You need to pull the Digitaliza a little away from the top edge. The scanner uses that bit to calibrate, and it will refuse to scan anything if the top couple of centimeters are obscured.

  21. linuxbcn
    linuxbcn ·

    I'm using now the 3.75ES version and don't faind the option for unactivate de Auto mode ;(

  22. linuxbcn
    linuxbcn ·

    Ups! In the end I found the preferences option to not always Fagus automatic adjustment.

  23. ivaylo
    ivaylo ·

    This guide is still on point, thank you!

  24. ludmila_noe
    ludmila_noe ·

    Thank you! This was very helpful

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